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and wondering who the VIP is.
Mama is headed for the four 18th-century houses on the narrow far side of the square. "It was one of these two"; she muses aloud, looking at the two houses in the middle, "but which one?" The gate of number 54, one of the two houses, is locked. So is the street-level shop. Walking through the open driveway of the house next door we stand in the courtyard, looking up at the two houses from behind. "None of them look familiar", she says. We walk out again. With her back to the building, facing the square, she recalls a scene, nearly eighty years ago, when she and her mother, just arrived in town to visit grandpa Neumann, stood on that very spot waving to her grandfather and her aunt, sitting on a near bench in the square. Samuel was extremely fond of his grandchild, little Anna, but he had recently suffered a stroke and aunt Erna, sitting at his side, not wanting him to get suddenly agitated, just sat there, looking at them but not giving any sign of recognizing them, as they stood waving hallo. The scene seemed so unreal; it left a lasting impression on little Anna's memory.
Mama has just about decided that house number fifty-four is where the Neumanns lived, when a man walks up to us and asks if we are looking for something and whether he may be of any assistance. We tell him. "Come with me", he invites us. "My mother may remember, she's lived next door all her life". Mama, Harriet and I follow him back into the old driveway, left through the main door and up the stairs to the first floor.
Mrs. Shkrlantová (try and pronounce it at your own peril), a very hospitable and kind lady in her eighties, remarkably well groomed, comes out to the landing to greet us, asks us in, offers seats, which we accept, asks if we would like a cup of coffee, which we politely refuse. She listens intently to Mama's story and then, with great and almost theatrical gestures expresses how sorry she is, but no, she personally only moved in after the Neumanns had sold number fifty-four to the Gut family, and so she never knew them - but the name sounded familiar. And isn't this also a remarkable coincidence, just yesterday, didn't she have a visitor, Mrs. Hanka Pressburg, who now lives in New Zealand but used to live next door, to the other side, because maybe she knew of the Neumanns, and she's now gone back to Prague, where she is staying with old friends, the Pavel Kohouts, and yes, she has their telephone number, but try calling her soon, because they are on a holiday trip and will be proceeding to London on Sunday.
Obviously gentile, good old pre-war Czech middle class. The room, overlooking the square, is well appointed, more lavish than one would expect a few really beautiful pieces. Mrs. S was wearing fine jewelry and in the breakfront she had a photograph of President Masaryk that looked as if it had always been there, also during the years of the communist regime.
Thinking that Paul, Margit and the others may be wondering where we are, I walk to one of the windows and, seeing Paul, and with Mrs. S's kind permission, I wave for them to come up. Shortly afterwards we thank these nice people, join the Sternlichts, Ulla and Ivo on the square and tell them about our visit. But Ivo too has news; there's an exhibition of the old town houses, right across the street. It is about to close for the day but if we hurry, we can still make it. We hotfoot it across the Cobblestones Street and are indeed looking at drawings of facades, blueprints, deeds and names of owners of some of the most outstanding buildings from the neoclassical period. There's even a picture, from the days of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, before WWI, of the house next to "ours", including, on each side, half of the adjacent house.
The roundish, smiling lady in charge knows about the prices of postcards and brochures but nothing about city archives. However, she can give us the name of the director, a Mr. Zoubek, whom we must telephone next week, as the clock shows that it is now 2pm. The lady also has further information which, given the hour and the thunderous grumbling of our stomachs, is rather vital: There is a restaurant around the corner, on a little side street.
While Ulla and crew head back to Prague, we have visions of hearty and juicy local Czech cooking. We even find a table for seven and most of us greedily order sauerkraut, pork shank and potatoes, overcoming all fears that it might be too heavy before our big family banquet tonight. Welcome to nouvelle Czech cuisine. Light is the byword here. Meat is something to be waved gently over the dish, or briefly dipped into it, for flavor. We eat. A lot of boiled potatoes.
Actually, the light meal is a blessing in disguise because Hanka is telling us her story. From the time, under Nazi occupation, when Jewish kids were no longer permitted to attend school and her father and other parents organized a clandestine classroom. Of how he lost his job. About the ghetto, being deported to Terezín with her parents and from there to Auschwitz, with her mother. While her mother was sent straight to the gas chamber, Hanka lies about her own age and was sent to the Nazi labor camps. The horror of Auschwitz was such, that in spite of fifty years of a loving marriage, children and grandchildren, she is unable, to this day, to remember the details from her time there. It was amazing, how she was able to tell her story in such a calm, almost matter-of-fact way. She must have told it so many times. And the important thing to keep in mind is that she is here to tell it.
We try to find the synagogue where great-grandpa prayed. -"And if he didn't, he should have!", says Harriet. Vera said it was
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